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The screws are #8 Stainless; 2 each 1, 1.25 and 1.5. This is due to the slope of the area under the windows to make the shelf parallel to the countertop. I didnt want to extend much beyond .25. (The holes are counter-sunk.) Each size is installed near its mate. You will want to drill a pilot hole in the fiberglass to prevent it from splintering when you put in the screws. This is easier if you have someone to hold the shelf in place while you mark the holes. Only penetrate 0.125 or so. You do not want to go through the core to the outside.
The rod is a chromed screen door turnbuckle I got from Home Depot. I used this because it was cheap, and the rod ends have a flat end with screw holes already in them. I cut the flat end so there was only one hole. I then cut it to length and threaded the other end with a 1/4 x 20 die. Originally I was going to use a stainless rail tube and ends, but that turned out to be quite pricy.
The bracket is a piece of aluminum approximately 1.125 x 5.0 x 0.0625. (About the thickness of the backing washers.) I rounded the ends to about the diameter of the backing washers and bent one end down to the appropriate angle after drilling a small hole for the end of the turnbuckle to attach to. I drilled two holes to clear the bolts from the traveler and replaced their washers with the new bracket. (The third bolt still has its washer.) The turnbuckle is attached to this bracket with a small bolt and nylock nut.
I had to move the existing galley lamp over a short distance. I wired the strip lights to the lamp switch so they come on when the lamp is turned on.